Some EGG owners elect to purchase a Big Green Egg wood table instead of a nest. Available in several sizes, these tables are made of Cypress and they are very light in color in their natural state. Cypress is very rot resistant and will weather naturally to a light grey color. To retain the original color, use a clear protective deck coating on the entire surface of the table. If another darker color is desired instead, stain the wood with any outdoor wood stain. Applying a protective finish to the table will prevent or diminish grease and food stains; the protective finish will keep the table attractive for many years, even with frequent use of the EGG.

Mold is naturally in the air around us virtually all the time. When it settles in a warm, moist environment, such as the interior of the EGG, it can readily grow and spread. When this occurs you will actually see the mold. To eliminate it, just light the EGG and bring the temperature up to 450°F and allow the EGG to "cook" for about 30 minutes. Then close the vents to put out the fire; after it cools down use a wire brush to remove any leftover mold residue. Do not use any chemicals to treat the mold! The ceramics can absorb the chemicals and emit dangerous fumes when the EGG is in use thereafter.

The fire ring and fire box often develop superficial fissures or small cracks. This is due to normal aging of ceramics and will not affect the cooking results or durability of your EGG. Should the ceramic ever break apart, it can usually still be used for cooking until a repair can be made. Any of our ceramic parts can be easily repaired with the use of a heat resistant epoxy. Look for a high temperature, non-toxic epoxy, available at most home center or hardware stores. Follow the instructions that come with the product. The repaired part should be ready within a few hours.

Should the gasket eventually show signs of excessive wear, it can be easily replaced following these simple steps:

• The EGG should be completely cool before attempting to work on the gasket.
• Remove the old gasket with a flat-edged scraper or box cutter.
• Clean the rim of the base and lid with acetone (preferred) or rubbing alcohol and let dry for at least 30 minutes. The surface must be totally clean for the new gasket to adhere.
• The new gasket is self-adhesive but you can use a spray adhesive (Super 77 by 3M) to ensure a good seal. If using the spray adhesive, spray a small amount around the rim of the base and lid. Allow this to set for about 2 minutes to become tacky.
• Remove the backing from the gasket and press firmly down onto the rim. Bend the gasket around the rim as you press down. Do not stretch the gasket; there is ample material for the top and bottom rim of the Big Green Egg.
• Allow the adhesive to cure for 24 hours with the lid closed before using the EGG.
• If the gasket should loosen, glue it back on with Elmer's glue or another household adhesive.

Fortunately, a small gap between the base and the dome can be easily fixed. Simply loosen the upper band just enough to move the lid; then press the lid down tightly against the base and retighten the bolt. This should eliminate the gap and resolve smoke leakage.

If this technique does not remedy the problem, there is another option. Sometimes through normal use the two nuts holding the spring to the lower edge of the band can loosen. If these nuts are no longer in a parallel line, tighten them until they are parallel again.

If you've been cooking at temperatures above 300°F, be very careful when opening the lid. First raise the lid an inch or two and pause to "burp" it before raising the lid completely. This will allow the sudden rush of oxygen to burn safely inside the EGG and not as a flashback which could startle you and possibly cause injury.

There are two common reasons why the EGG will not reach higher temperatures.

The first is lack of airflow. Make sure that all of the air holes are free of obstructions, including those in the fire grate, the fire box, and the space behind and around the firebox. It is also necessary for the horseshoe shaped opening in the firebox to be aligned with the lower draft door in order to obtain proper air flow. Increasing the amount of air will ensure the EGG reaches higher temperatures.

The second reason you may have trouble attaining higher temperatures is that the lump charcoal is wet or damp. If charcoal is wet, or was wet and has not completely dried, it will be very difficult to reach higher cooking temperatures. Removing the wet charcoal and replacing it with fresh, dry lump coal will remedy this problem.

One important attribute of the Big Green Egg is its ability to set and accurately maintain a desired temperature. The EGG has a two damper system that facilitates easy heat control. By adjusting both the top and bottom dampers, the heat inside the EGG can attain and hold temperatures ranging from under 200°F to over 750°F This range should accommodate any cooking needs — from low-temperature smoking to high-heat searing. The thermometer installed on the ceramic lid will provide accurate internal readings without opening the lid.

A dual function metal top is included with each EGG. The daisy wheel design contains openings that can be adjusted to allow more or less air to "fine tune" the desired cooking temperature. Opening the entire sliding metal top will achieve high temperatures more quickly.

Already installed on the base of each EGG is a stainless steel draft door, which now has a mesh panel for extra safety. (If you have an older EGG without the mesh, you have the option of purchasing a replacement draft door with the mesh.) It is best to keep the mesh panel fully closed to prevent hot ash or coals from popping out. As with the dual function metal top, you can adjust the draft door opening slightly to "fine tune" the cooking temperature or open the solid door fully to reach higher temperatures faster.

Although the frequency of your fireplace servicing and maintenance will depend on use and the type of installation, you should have a qualified service technician perform an appliance check-up at the beginning of each heating season.

Our fan kits come with a rheostat control (like a light dimmer). You can turn the control down to reduce the air noise from your fan. The fan control can be found in the control area behind the lower louver of the fireplace. We also provide optional remote controls which can control your fan speed and flame height from your favorite chair! Sunfire can help you with adding a remote control.

Your decision really comes down to how much a priority heating efficiency is for you. If you want a lot of heat from your fireplace, you should consider a direct vent gas insert. From a cost standpoint, an insert will cost approximately five times the cost of a nice gas log set. However, since the insert is very efficient, it will pay for itself over a period of a few years in gas bill savings. We offer both a full line of inserts and vented gas logs to choose from. Installing room-vented or vent free log sets in our wood-burning fireplaces is unacceptable. Doing so will void your warranty on the fireplace and possibly your homeowners insurance.

Yes. We recommend annual service of your fireplace by a qualified serviceperson. This will ensure that your appliance is functioning properly.

Too much heat can be an issue even in colder climates. There are several gas fireplace models which allow you to control the heat coming into the room. You have the option of redirecting the heat totally out of your home, or to other parts of your home. Electric fireplaces are also available in a heat or no heat operation mode. Sunfire will be happy to assist you in making this decision.

Installation of our hearth products must be done in strict accordance with local or national building codes, and the unit's installation manual. We recommend that our products be installed by a factory-trained professional. Sunfire has factory-trained professional that will help you with this service.

A flue is another name for the fireplace chimney or venting system.

Zero clearance has two meanings. The first is whether or not the fireplace can be placed on a floor without footings. All of our fireplaces are classified as zero clearance, meaning they do not need special footings. The second meaning of zero clearance is if you are able to finish up to the face of the fireplace, so that no metal shows after installation is complete. There are several models on our website that are capable of this clean-faced, zero clearance finish. Check with Sunfire on which models are suitable for this type of installation.

Click here for step-by-step instructions to light your pilot

A traditional sauna typically heats up in 30-45 minutes. During this time period the rocks will be properly heated for soft heat and soft steam – and the wood interior will be comfortably heated, too.  With the addition of a Saunatonttu heater heat up time is cut in half.  On the infrared side, most bathers find that a 10 minute wait is about right.  By then, the air has warmed up a little and the emitters are running at full power.

If used 3 times/week, a 6 kW heater will use about $4 to $6/month. A 2.1 kW heater would use about $2/month.   For Far-infrared, the typical sauna uses $3 to $5 per month.  Steambaths average $3 to $5 per month.

Woods are determined for multiple reasons.  The main reason is performance.  All the woods we use in our saunas have been used for centuries in sauna use and have long proven their viability for sauna use.  The main reason for wood choices is user preference and style.  We hand select clear softwoods such as Western Red Cedar and Canadian Hemlock (vertical grain only) and European fine grained woods such as European Alder complemented by matching bench materials which enhance the user experience and comfort.  We determine the best profiles, thickness, framing materials, hardware and provide you with a product that is built to last.  Our warranties and decades of experience confirm our leadership in this regard.

Standard breakers, properly sized for the heater according to the National Electric Code.   For the standard Infrared saunas, they can be plugged in to normal household 120 volt outlets (15 and 20 amp).

Take L x W x H to calculate cubic footage, and then find the correct heater on the Finnleo or Helo heater sizing chart.  On the infrared saunas, the correct amount of emitters and wattage has already been determined and maximized for each room.

Traditional saunas do better with non-absorbent materials such as tile and cement.  Infrared saunas usually have wood or tile is most typical. Never use carpet as it will absorb sweat and emit odors.

It isn't absolutely necessary, but it may be helpful for cleaning purposes. This is especially true for traditional saunas.

Hands down it is relaxation, and detoxification.

Remember to consult your physician if you have a history of heart problems, high blood pressure or other health concerns.

Yes, absolutely. Not only is it okay, it is an essential part of the traditional sauna experience. On the infrared side, humidity will be ambient.

Take a cool rinse, it will close your pores and leave you feeling refreshed, but don't forget to moisturize your hair and skin with a quick shampoo and a lotion rubdown. Also it is important to drink water, mineral water, fruit or vegetable juice to replace lost fluids.

Common sense is key. Typically, people like to stay in the sauna for 10 to 15 minutes, step out to cool off, return to the sauna for another "round," and repeat. Always remember that if you don't feel comfortable leave the sauna and cool off.

It mostly depends on personal preference, but is typically between 150 to 175 degrees for traditional saunas and 120 to 130 degrees for infrared. Also it is not uncommon for users to enjoy cooler or hotter saunas.

Our hot tubs are so well built that they will provide years of lasting value, and solid resale value. You can sell or trade in your well-cared-for Beachcomber for 25 to 40 per cent of its original cost. And from day to day, you recover your investment every time you slip into your spa to renew your body, mind and spirit. A hot tub is a thing of great value for the home – we call it ‘the appliance of the 21st century'. We buy dishwashers to wash our dishes, and machines to wash our clothes – it just makes sense to have an appliance to renew our bodies and make us feel good all over! A Beachcomber is a great item for your family.

With the ever-faster pace of modern life, time is becoming the most precious commodity. Being able to take a few minutes to relieve your stress, protect your health, and connect with those closest to you is essential in today’s busy world. There's no better place to connect with the people you love, than in a Beachcomber Hot Tub.

For the cost of a typical, traditional family vacation, a Beachcomber Hot Tub will give you years of daily stress relief, family closeness and better health. Beachcomber also gives you lasting value. Imagine trying to trade in a family vacation you took 10 years ago! Everyone knows that is not possible.

For the cost of that one traditional vacation, you can be relaxing in a spa of your own, any time you like, right in the comfort of your back yard. Beachcomber offers a wide variety of models, each built with the same quality materials and to the same exacting standards. The only difference in prices are in the size, design, and options. Our wide range of choice means there is a Beachcomber Hot Tub for every budget. And it doesn’t matter which Beachcomber Spa you buy from our product lineup – they all come with the same high quality standards, and the same worldwide guarantee.

Depending on where you live and the kilowatt hour costs in your area, your hot tub is inexpensive to run. With the Limited Edition’s 4WALL Insulation, our Power Guard Heatshield Cover, and Perma-Seal Foundation, you are assured of a well built, energy efficient hot tub. There are variables that affect the cost – frequency of use, the model you chose, your environment and your climate. But if you think of it this way, it’s usually less per month than a trip to the movies with your family. A spa gives you tremendous satisfaction and health benefits for a small cost each month. Check with your local Beachcomber store for more information that relates to your particular area.

No, a hot tub is easy to care for. A simple few steps each week will keep your hot tub ready to use any time you need it. Our customers tell us that the enjoyment they get from their spas benefit their families for years to come. The Enviroskirt and Acrylic Finish is easy to care for, requiring little or no maintenance. Simply wipe them clean with a soft cloth and a mild detergent.

Your local store can test your hot tub water for you, and provide you with anything you need. Our Beachcomber brand water care products (where available) are formulated for your Beachcomber, and are easy to use. Beachcomber gives you support in your local store and on this website, with all the information you need to care for your hot tub water.

Yes, soaking in hot water has been known for centuries to improve health and wellness. We know that certain symptoms of diabetes are relieved from soaking in hot water. Your blood vessels expand, allowing more circulation, pressure releases from joints with the buoyancy of water, and you lose over half your body weight. Increasing the body’s temperature to 103°F / 39.4°C increases the number of virus and bacteria fighting white blood cells three fold. Most cold and flu viruses don’t multiply above 101.6°F / 38.6°C. You will experience a unique feeling of well being every time you soak in your Beachcomber. Your immune system is stimulated, releasing endorphins – the body’s natural pain killers, to melt away aches and pains.

Beachcomber's Founder, Keith Scott said this… “…if I could figure out how to make a hot tub with almost no horsepower, I would do it…” Scott believes that proper engineering, just like a fine automobile, will show in the performance of a spa. Every Beachcomber is tested and designed for the proper PSI (pounds per square inch) at each WaterPort location, so the bather gets the massage they need. We don’t want to blast the bather out of the seat with huge jet combinations – this is contrary to our design principles. Plus, too many holes in the hot tub shell weakens the structure and ruins any massage capabilities. Beachcomber’s All Active Seating gives you the massage and relaxation you need.

The best spot for your hot tub is outside, about 10 feet from your back door. Having the spa closer to your access door makes it easier to get to and from all year long. Having it closer to your home can help reduce exposure to wind, so you can get maximum enjoyment from your hot tub. A Beachcomber Hot Tub can be set up in your back yard very quickly. All you need is a level spot, a garden hose and an electric connection, like the one on your kitchen stove. A hot tub is moved quite easily with a dolly and two or three people – our stores are well equipped for moving a Beachcomber Spa. And your Beachcomber is fully portable, a fully contained unit; all the plumbing is contained inside the cabinetry. Simply take it with you if you move.

Yes, you should. Beachcomber has been building 4WALL Insulated hot tubs since 1978. Filling the cavity with foam makes your Beachcomber “green”. A Beachcomber with 4WALL runs at peak efficiency, and will save energy. When we eliminate open air space in the spa cavity, we prevent air and moisture penetration, to lock precious heat inside, not let it escape into the atmosphere. Would you not insulate the walls of your home? We don’t think so. Beachcomber recommends 4WALL Insulation available in our Limited Edition models for the best built hot tub money can buy.

Beachcomber does not offer a warranty. A “Limited Warranty” is designed to protect the manufacturer against the customer. They have never offered this type of limited coverage. They give you a Guarantee, with no fine print. Beachcomber believes that when you get the hot tub home in your back yard, that this is when customer satisfaction really begins. They want you to tell your friends about Beachcomber – not have problems. And if a problem does happen, they want it to be the least of your worries. If you are happy, they know you will tell your friends, and they will buy Beachcomber, too. Beachcomber's business philosophy is simple, really – build the best product, back it 100%, and you’ll have happy customers. They’ve proved it for over 30 years.

This is a great question. Some manufacturers drill multiple holes in their spas and fill them with arrays of jets. They believe that the customer will think that they are getting extra value. The more jets, the better, right? We don’t think so. Really, we don’t believe that more jets is really the best for the customer. So how many jets is enough?

With Beachcomber's design principles of form, fit and function, they have diligently studied every seat in each one of their 17 different models, to see exactly what will happen when you are enjoying it with your family, in real life. The relationship between pump pressure, water action and the therapy and enjoyment you need is something we constantly study. More jets do not make a better hot tub. We want the best of therapy, structural rigidity (too many holes can compromise quality structure), massage performance, the beauty of moving water and many other factors that we study. Rest assured that no matter which model of Beachcomber you buy, you get the best design for your personal pleasure!

You don’t have to go half way around the globe to enjoy some peace and relaxation. You can do it right in the comfort of your own back yard in your Beachcomber Spa.

Privacy? Yes. Get away any time you want. Freedom? Yes again. Enjoy the buoyancy and relief from sore joints and muscles. Pleasure? Yes again – isn’t this what people go on holiday for? Skip the crowds and enjoy a Beachcomber Hot Tub all year – any time you want.

A Beachcomber Hot Tub is about the cost of just one traditional vacation – The difference is that you get that holiday feeling every time you use your spa, for years to come.

Did you know?

• That cooking with cast-iron goes back over 2500 years.
• That cast iron grills offer many exceptional cooking benefits.
• That cast iron grills are a near perfect heat conductor, heating evenly and consistently.
• That it can withstand very high temperatures, which makes it perfect for searing.
• That cured cast iron offers perfect non-stick surface making it ideal for many dishes where using non-stick is a must.

Tip: Cast iron cooking grills must be seasoned to protect the metal from rusting and to provide that non-stick surface. Seasoning cast iron is a process comprising of 3 simple steps:

1. Clean the cast iron grill with warm soapy water; rinse thoroughly and dry.
2. Apply a layer of fat all over (typically fats high in saturated fats such as Crisco, palm oil, coconut oil or lard);
3. Heat up the fat covered grills to a high temperature causing the fat to bond to the iron.

If your cooking grills develop rust spots, scour the rusty areas with steel wool, until all traces of rust are gone then wash, dry and repeat seasoning process.

The burner is made from a heavy wall 304 stainless steel but due to extreme heat and the corrosive environment of a grill, surface corrosion will occur. Use a brass wire brush to remove the surface corrosion. Clean any blocked ports with an opened paper clip. Do not enlarge the burner ports. Spiders and insects are attracted to the additive mercapton, (which gives propane and natural gas that rotten egg smell) and though the burners are equipped with insect screens this will not entirely eliminate the spiders or insects from making nests inside the burners or valve orifices. The nest or web will cause the burner to burn with a soft yellow or orange flame or worse a flashback: a fire at the air shutters underneath the control panel. If this occurs you must remove the burners for a thorough cleaning. Please see burner removal instructions for your grill. Once your burners are removed use a flexible venturi brush to snag out any web or nest from inside the burner. Shake any loose debris out of the burner, through the gas inlet. Remove the orifices at the end of the valves and clean any webs from them. Do not enlarge the orifices. Ensure that all burner ports are clear of any debris. Re-install the burner ensuring that the valve enters the venturi end and is securely in place.

Cast aluminum is used primarily for it's resistance to rust and it's ability to hold and distribute heat evenly. However, extreme temperatures and weathering may cause oxidation to form. This surface oxidation can be removed by using a mild soap and water solution and wash the grill as you would your car. A light coating of vegetable oil can be applied with a soft rag. This will add luster and offer protection to the outside of the casting. Coat the inside of the grill lightly with vegetable oil when it is new or when it is clean to give it extra protection from food acids. You can even refinish the casting by applying high temperature barbecue paint on the outside of the base. After the paint has thoroughly dried, bake it on by operating the grill for 15 minutes on a medium heat, then wipe on a light coating of vegetable oil.

Slide the drip pan out for easy cleaning. It should be cleaned frequently (every 4-5 uses) to avoid grease buildup. Grease and excess drippings pass through the drip pan, located under the grill, and accumulate in the disposable grease tray below the drip pan. Accumulated grease can cause a fire hazard. Do not line the drip pan with aluminum foil or sand, as it can prevent the grease from flowing properly. The pan should be scraped out with a putty knife or scraper, and all the debris should be scraped into the disposable grease tray. This tray should be replaced every two to four weeks.

Porcelain enamel will wipe clean in seconds. It will not scorch, burn or discolor in a sustained high-heat environment (with the exception of red: under high heat red will turn a darker red but will come back to original color once temperatures are back to normal.) Porcelain enamel colors are unaffected by rain, snow, dust, sunlight, heat, oxidizing agents or corrosive fumes. The coating will not peel, blister or delaminate from its metal substrate or underlying porcelain enamel coating. The enamel lid is easy to clean, usually only by using a mild detergent and very little scrubbing effort.

It is very common for Stainless Steel to change to a light brownish hew over time from the heat of the grill. However, Napoleon's stainless steel cleaner, part number 10231, is very effective in removing this discoloration. All you have to do is simply apply a small amount to the surface of the lid and rub in the direction of the grain of the stainless steel with a soft, damp cloth. Rinse well immediately and then polish with a dry cloth. This cleaner contains sulfuric acid so we highly recommend wearing safety glasses, gloves and protective clothing when applying this solution.

Regular use of this cleaner keeps your stainless steel gleaming and protects against future damage. Specially formulated to remove clouding, mineral residue caused by weather/environment and discoloration caused by high heat.

Spit roasting has never been easier with the Napoleon rotisserie kit. Prepare you meat or poultry as desired or follow the Spit Roasting Guide in your Napoleon cookbook.

rotiseriPlace one fork onto the spit rod and secure with the thumbscrew provided. Slide the meat or poultry onto the spit rod, balancing it as evenly as possible. Then secure the next fork onto the meat and tighten the thumbscrew.(Repeat this procedure if you have 4 forks) You may also want to tighten the thumbscrew with pliers, as they often loosen when exposed to heat. An easy way to see if your meat or poultry is balanced is to hang the spit rod over your kitchen sink. The heavy side will spin to the bottom, in which case you would attach your counter balance in the opposite direction of the weighted food. (Example: heavy side down...counter balance up). Next you will add the stop bushing to the left side of the spit rod but do not tighten. Secure the spit rod handle to the spit.

Remove the warming rack and fit the rotisserie motor onto the bracket on the left side of the grill. Slide the spit rod into the square opening in the motor and let the spit rod rest on the knotch out on the other side of the hood. Move the stop bushing to the inside left of the hood and secure tightly into place. Now you are ready to use your Napoleon Rotisserie. Remember to always place a pan under whatever you are rotissing to catch all the drippings. You may even want to add some orange or apple juice, wine, water or even beer to the pan to baste your meat or poultry with during the cooking process. It is always best to start your rear burner on the high position to sear in the juices and then turn down the heat to a more medium heat and close your lid. For cooking times please refer to your Napoleon cookbook, though we recommend the use of a meat thermometer for completely accurate cooking every time. Happy Rotissing!

Still want the convenience of gas, but long for that charcoal flavor? No problem! Napoleon's charcoal tray lights easily with your gas burner.

Before you begin to use your charcoal tray you will need to determine how much charcoal you are going to need to complete the meal. Approximately one layer for burgers or steaks and two layers for roasts or chicken. Pour enough charcoal into the tray to make the layers needed. Stack charcoal into a cone shape. Remove one sear plate, light the gas burner directly under the charcoal tray and burn on high until the charcoal is glowing red and then turn off the gas burner. Let coals burn until all coals are white on the surface. With a long handle instrument, spread the coals evenly across the coal grate. Close lid, wait 5 minutes and start cooking.

TIP: Never add lighter fluid to burning coals. Even if there is no flame, the heat will vaporize the lighter fluid and can cause a dangerous flare-up the second the vapor encounters a flame.

When using gas grills, it's best to put presoaked wood chips in our smoker tube. Fill the stainless steel tube with wood chips. Submerge in cold water for at least half an hour. Place the smoker tube on the sear plate over the left burner, then light your burner. For 3 burner models you would light the left and right burner and leave the center burner off. Place your meat in the center. You are using the indirect cooking method. Smoke the meat for several hours under a closed lid. To achieve maximum flavor, add fresh wood chips several times during the cooking process, in which case you may want to consider having extra smoker tubes on hand.

For chicken, game, turkey, roasts, ham, vegetables, breads or combinations, the indirect cooking method gives great results every time. With this method of cooking, the food is above the unlit burner therefore not directly over the flame but instead to one side. Indirect heat cooks the food oven-style and there is little need to turn the food. You can place the food directly on the grids or in a cooking pan.

For models with 3 burners, place the food on the center cooking grid and turn off the center burner, so that only the left or right burners are providing heat. For models with two burners, place the food on the right cooking grid and turn off the right burner, so that only the left burner is providing heat. Use a similar method for models with four burners.

The blowers may only need to be cleaned once per year. If the use of the stove is heavy, then it may need to be done more frequently. If the blower is getting noisy, then the fan blades will need to be cleaned.

This needs to be cleaned and inspected at least once per year. It may be necessary to perform more frequent cleaning if there is a lot of horizontal pipe sections. Ash will build up more quickly in the horizontal sections.

The heat exchangers can be cleaned by pulling the 2 rods located under the top lid of the stove. The rods should be pulled each time the firepot is cleaned. A more thorough cleaning will be needed at least once a month. This will include removing the baffle plates in the firebox and accessing the clean-out plate on the right hand side of the stove. This is necessary to remove the excess ash that is left behind from the use of the pull rods for the heat exchanger tubes.

The firebox ash should be removed at the same time that the firepot is cleaned. Frequent cleaning of the ash in the firebox will help slow down the build-up of ash in the exhaust blower and vent system. Deposit ashes in a non-combustible container.

In some cases, it may be necessary to clean the firepot on a daily basis. The build-up of clinker material will depend on the quality of fuel being used. Firepot cleaning involves simply pulling the clean-out rod on the front of the stove. If the rod is hard to pull, it may be necessary to use a scraper or screw driver to chip away the carbon material that has built up on the bottom plate of the firepot. Once debris is chipped away, the rod will be easy to pull.

The model number will be located either in the hopper or on one of the side panels. On that rating plate is your model number and serial number.

Pellets are made by compressing fine sawdust through a high-speed molding process. There are no additives; the natural binders and resins in the wood hold the pellet together.

Installation of our hearth products must be done in strict accordance with local or national building codes, and the unit's installation manual. It is always a good idea to check with your home owner’s insurance company too, some companies may void your coverage. We recommend that our products be installed by a factory-trained professional.